Preparing for Work Advice

USEFUL TIPS PREPARING FOR WORK

FRIDAY AFTERNOON/ EVENING

Once the schedule has gone out for the next week it’s good to check your combinations and decide whether you think there’s any groups that will be too much or have any routes that don’t make sense so it can be changed earlier.  Also check how many dogs need longlines, ideally it would only ever be 1, 2 is okay but I wouldn’t go any more than that for safety reasons.  If you have too many longline dogs, ask to make a switch. 

PREPARATION NIGHT BEFORE

  • Pick up route
    I have all the clients on google maps like this under the dog’s name
    It was very helpful at the beginning for deciding my pick up route as they’re all plotted out, plus makes putting it into google maps a lot faster as I just have to type the name.

  • Who is your assistant?  Have you communicated with them about timings and pick up/drop offs? 

  • Van layout - who can share a crate? Who barks or is nervous of the van? Any dogs who you may need high value treats to get in the crate eg. DJ I always have chicken or hot dogs to lure him in otherwise he digs his heels in and I have no chance getting him anywhere

  • If you have any dogs who guard their crates I would also recommend blocking their view from the other dogs, I have large bits of cardboard I move around to make a barrier.

  • Are you prepared for the next day? Equipment ready, clean towels, high and low value treats, anything else you may need?

  • Do you need any keys?  I would recommend checking this before you go home for the day and collecting them ready for the morning

I would also check the schedule again once the assists have been allocated as some assists are more capable than others so it might change your view on whether a group may be too much.  Sometimes an assistant will literally be there just to make up the two people so there’s not a lot they can do if something goes wrong.

MORNING

  • Check the trackers are on/charged before you set off, you can put them on charge as you drive around (if the light isn’t coming on either the button is stuck or they’re out of charge, putting them on charge automatically turns them on so this will solve it)

  • Message any clients who like to be told when you’re on your way as you go

  • Aim to be at your first pick up at 8:30am.  Any earlier than that unless you need to check with the client as not everyone is happy to be answering the door and sometimes they’re even still in bed.

AT THE PARK

  1. Sort trackers longlines and muzzles - tractive trackers on biggest risk, airtags on the rest.  Attach longlines to harnesses ready for when you let them off lead.

  2. Check your equipment, should be a list of everything you should have on the back door of your van.

  3. Get the dogs out - hand first 4 you take out to your assistant, but think about which ones you’re giving to them.  Is the assistant capable of holding onto these dogs?  Are the dogs on a lead together a safe combo?  Then take out your 4 and lock the van.  Unless in an emergency, neither one of you should really have more than 4 dogs on leads at once as it’s easy to get tangled and taken out.

  4. Enter the park and let the dogs off once you’re safely in and can’t see any other large groups of walkers.  Keep any possible wind ups on for the first 15 minutes as this is usually the most chaotic part of the walk.

  5. Get moving.  The longer you stay in one place the more likely they are to start being nutty, keep it moving.

ON THE WALK

  • Avoid other groups/dogs/people

  • Watch longlines for getting tangled or caught

  • Try keep arousal levels down.  Obviously let them play and enjoy themselves, but scatter feed and engage with them as well

  • DO NOT scatter feed around resource guarders

  • DO NOT throw balls or sticks, it winds them up too much

  • Keep a count of your dogs.  Dogs run in and out of bushes so don’t panic when you can’t see them for a second every now and then.

  • Don’t constantly call their name, they’re more likely to ignore it the more you say it, use loud noises/ whistles.

TROUBLESHOOTING

  • You show up to collect and a dog is limping/injure

    - Assess the injury and make a call whether to take them on the walk
    - If you choose not to take them, let the client know and recommend they take the dog to a vet.  We can make suggestions on small things but ALWAYS say to refer to a vet as we are not covered to give medical advice.
    - If the client needs the walk to break up the day or because they are out, offer other suggestions such as daycare or a drop in and we will see what we can do

  • You show up and a dog is on heat
    - Generally dogs on heat should not come on group walks.  Offer alternatives such as 121s or drop ins and have any group walks moved/cancelled until they’re out of heat

  • No answer at the door/ can’t get in
    - Check PSP for keys/lockbox information
    - If nothing on PSP, message group chat to ask as sometimes things get missed on PSP
    - Message in clients group to say you’re there and ask if anyone is in/ will be home soon
    - If we definitely don’t have keys/lockbox, give clients 5-10 mins to answer but don’t wait any longer.  If you don’t hear back message in the client group saying sorry you can’t wait any longer and to let us know if there’s been a mistake.

GOOD PREP

If you wanted to do some homework here are some useful videos advice and protocols.

WATCH AND PRACTISE:

  1. LOOK-LOOK-LOOK
    (101 ON DOG TRAINING)

  2. TOUCH/ TARGET

  3. ADVANCED RECALL
    USING LONGLINE

  4. EYE CONTACT
    (WATCH ME)

  5. ENGAGE DISENGAGE

  6. SIT

  7. STAY

  1. PW: TDG1825

  2. PW: TDG1842

  3. PW: TDG 8899

  4. PW: TDG1811

  5. PW: TDG1809

  6. PW: TDG1836

  7. PW: TDG1111

If you are a beginner you may like to read:

Karen Pryor Don't shoot the Dog.

Pam Reid: Excel-erated Learning:

An extensive reading list if available on the Career page HERE if you wish to do more. Once you have watched and practiced the videos we have a data base of lots more, so please request and let us know if any links are broken or videos seem dated so we can record new ones.

ADVICE AND PROTOCOLS

Keep this somewhere safe for when you need it and read sometime before you start….

NEW DOG

  • Read notes. Ask team about them

  • Make sure all dogs are tarxkered

  • All new dogs must where harness and longline initially. Practice recall and don’t let them off until you are confident, they have bonded with you and are responsive.

  • If in doubt start in a penned in area. You can also get them out van for 5 mins alone to begin with to practice with and have them ride up front to bind with you.

LOST DOG

  • Stay looking calling in area they went missing unless you saw where they went. Stay calm dogs do go off.

  • After around ten minutes see if someone will go to your vehicle and check if they are there and alert the team so they can look out for phone calls from someone who finds dog and on what’s appt groups about sightings.

  • After about 20 – 30 mins alert owner and ask them to check at home if the park is running distance from them.

  • After 1hr re direct full team onto the hunt and alert lost dog etc.

  • Don’t chase scared dogs just try to keep them in sight.

DOG ACCIDENT PROTOCOL

In the event of a dog’s life being in imminent danger please go straight to the VET and notify THE COMPANY at your earliest convenience.

In the event of a potential need to see the Vet such as the dog has eaten something or cut themselves. Notify THE COMPANY at your earliest convenience. Them or you can then contact the owner ask whether they feel they would like their dog taken to the Vet or not and let it be the owner’s decision.

Never admit liability or the insurers will not cover you. You can say “I am so sorry this event has occurred.” However, do not say anything that says it is your fault such as “I am so sorry I should never have done X.”

Generally speaking, like if a child gets hurt at school, the owner should pay but if the owners feel’s we have been negligent and wants to sue then you are insured but therefore you should try and leave it for clients to pay so there is no awkward reclaim scenario.

If out of hours Vet- the vet must confirm and be willing to in writing that it is an emergency that has to be dealt with now or insurance won’t pay.

DOG BITES

Do not get yourself in the way of a dog fighting with another dog.

To break up a possible conflict with a dog break eye contact so not put your hands in. 

Stick. Loud noise. Water chucked on dog can interrupt them.

If already biting and clamped on, your Break stick is inserted in mouth and twisted to release clamped jaw.

 It is worth having the biting dog looped in a slip lead and or across body so if you release them, they don’t go straight back in.

If you pull a dog towards you it will usually back up (opposition reflex) ie rather than bite you.

Remember the law and consequences if a dog bites and in my opinion do all you can to prevent an otherwise good-natured dog from being subjected to the implications of the law.

VEHICLE ACCIDENT PROTOCOL

Never admit liability

If it’s a minor accident which is clearly your fault you should try and pay outside of insurers.

If using own vehicle, ensure it is insured for business use and that your occupation is dog walker/ trainer.

HOT / BAD WEATHER PROTOCOL

Ts & C’s say they need to pay in case you need it but generally we like not charging if it’s the odd random day but up to you…


If you don’t want to charge and want PM OFF, you can say. 

I am afraid I feel it’s too hot and thus not safe to go out this afternoon, so walks are off but don’t worry we won’t charge. However, if your dog is stuck in, I can always go for a quick ten-minute house visits instead for the same rate.

If you want to charge, I suggest saying something like…

I am afraid it’s very hot this afternoon so does you still want a walk? I’m afraid if not it does count as an on the day cancellation as we cannot control the weather, but I would be happy to do a walk this evening instead or drop in for a 10-minute house visit? Please let me know what suits you.

MORNINGS 

Please feel free to move earlier and get an assistant to make walks 1& 2 together and thus message and say something like …

Hey, it’s going to be super-hot tomorrow so we need to get out and back before the sun gets too high in the sky, therefore picks ups will be from X time. If that does not work for you, please feel free to cancel but note it will be charged as an on the day cancellation as we cannot control the weather.

Our official hot weather tips are here:

https://www.thatdogguy.org/hot-weather-tips

USEFUL LAW

It is a criminal offence for

A dog to be dangerously out of control (they don’t have to have harmed anyone so keep control and if goes wrong be super nice and don’t let them identify you if you think they may accuse you.)

To worry Captive Livestock (they don’t have to harm any. Wild animals not the same).

To have a dog off lead by a road in a car park etc.

For a dog to cause a nuisance in a vehicle (so keep them strapped in/in crates/ dog guards if in a car and attached to a harness and dog seat belt. Lead tied to head rest etc..)

To harm a service dog (so keep well away from them).

To intimidate someone (so don’t you do it and make sure no one say you are using your dog to but if someone is intimidating you it is illegal).

To threaten to harm an animal. (So, take note / record it if someone does.)

It is not illegal for…

A dog to harm another dog but the owner of offending dog can be sued to pay the damages…

Licenses & PSPO’s

We have a license for Cranford.

Weare currently not using Hammersmith due to licence restrictions

Chiswick, Gunnersbury, Stamford brook, Fryent way require no licence.

We are not permitted to walk in royal parks.

According to Elmbridge borough council Local authority officers have no power of arrest, or the power to require someone to provide their name and address so if you are not near your vehicle or wearing any branding you can choose to stay anonymous.

GENERAL PROTOCOLS & GUIDELINES

Most hopefully obvious….

SAFETY FIRST!!!

IF YOU AGREE TO SOMETHING DO NOT THEN CHANGE YOUR MIND OR PLAN!!! IF in doubt say no to start with until you are 100% sure.

  • Reinforce behavior that you like rather than scold what you don’t like! If you can’t ignore ask for something else.

  • Keep dogs in sight at all times.

  • Please contact your boarding/ sitting clients a few days before you are due to care for their dog to confirm everything and let me know you have so I can tick it off.

  • Please leave their properties clean and tidy, report any damage and replace any significant household items you have used.

  • You may like to read the That Dog Guy terms of business on the website and ensure owners stick to them so they don’t take the mick with you as a newbie. 

  • Always keep treats on you on walks. Cheap ham/ hot dog / dried liver/ irish rover treats are perfect.

  • Remember poo bags.

  • Keep keys around your neck on a secure lanyard or in Zipped up pockets.

  • Clips leads around neck or in zipped up bags.

  • When walking multiple dogs keep on the move, particularly on leads to avoid a tangle and conflict.

  • Do not shout, scream or repeat cues to an unresponsive dog.

  • A loud sound may be used as an interrupter, if appropriate to the dog if needed.

  • Only use a longline with a harness.

  • Make sure you have hold of leads before letting dogs out vehicles.

  • Do not leave dogs from different households un-supervised together unless you are sure they are okay.

  • Feed dogs from different households in different rooms/ sections.

  • Keep dogs on leads around roads.

  • Carry water in hot weather and a small tub for dogs to drink from and walk in the shade.

  • Muzzle an injured dog before assisting. You can make a muzzle with a bandage.

Professional indemnity

If you are not a qualified trainer it is safest to refer clients to a qualified team member for advice so you are not held legally responsible for giving advice that could lead to legal ramifications.